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It’s mind-boggling to be driving along a road and see a sign with an arrow, pointing to “BAGDHAD or “BEIRUIT, “SAUDI BORDER or “ISRAELI BORDER! The most powerful sense I had was not one of personal safety, but of being in such a very small area where so many violent hatreds and resentments are held. Imagine that the people in New Jersey have decades of hatred directed toward people in New York. Even though they share many common customs, diet and similarity of language, you know that, at any moment, missiles might be flying overhead and the street beneath your feet might explode.

The Jordanians live this life every day and I don’t imagine anyone envies them!

Amman is called “The White City, because nearly all buildings are constructed of local pinkish-grey sandstone. When I asked why nobody paints their house a COLOR, I was told that “the government does NOT encourage this.



http://www.flickr.com/photos/68806776@N ... 4397743370

If you watch the people doing their daily business, you see that nobody exhibits individuality, especially the women. It occurred to me that, because Islam veils the young women before they begin to dress in an attractive manner, cosmetics and fashion are invisible there, outside the home.

I may have seen only a dozen women who didn’t wear some form of hijab. The majority that I saw in the cities wore the head scarf, tightly wrapped and tied under the chin. As we were further out into the country, we saw that probably a quarter of the women covered the full face, some with a slot left over the eyes and many with a transparent veil over that cover. It’s not like the burkha we’ve all seen in Afghani life, because even that garment has some color. These women look like black bags of laundry with shoes, making their way huddled against walls and staring resolutely at the path in front of them. It’s a very effective way of cutting the women off from even conversing with one another.

Men and women do not touch in public, nor did I see friendly conversation between passers-by. One of the benefits I’ve always enjoyed when traveling is a “female thing¦ that women with small children usually respond well to friendly gestures or smiles of appreciation toward the kids. I’ve made many temporary friends in airports, etc, by complimenting a child and exchanging “mom grins or the rolling of eyes, etc.

Because of the veils, this was impossible in Jordan and I missed it.

(Former) Queen Noor established an organization to encourage womens’ involvement in public life, but we were told there has been “a disagreement within the royal family, and that the institute is no longer active.

We did encounter groups of school children who, in the way of children everywhere, wanted to try out their English and were happy to exchange jokes and names and simple phrases. Their teachers often seemed puzzled that I’d initiate contact with the children, so I explained that I’m a (sort of) teacher, too, and that I missed children. That seemed to suffice, although I’m not sure what they REALLY thought!

In any event, history teachers have many interesting field trips to arrange in Jordan! Every major civilization has marched through¦the Greeks, Romans, Turks and, in modern times, Western powers, too. Just outside Amman is an enormous complex, a Roman colonial town which is more complete than any other outside Italy. JERASH had theaters, racing stadia, libraries, public baths and many temples and symbolic buildings. You could easily spend a day or two there, wandering about and imagining the old days of power.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/68806776@N ... 397730715/

Luckily, our guide was very well-educated and we learned a great deal about the ruins. In addition to being drop-dead GORGEOUS, Khaled Al-Bajjali is gifted with intelligence, a great sense of humor and the ability to learn languages. He speaks Arabic, of course, in addition to English, French, Spanish, German and he wants to learn Japanese. I suspect he’ll have a very interesting life! His parents did a FINE job with him!

Not far from Amman is Ajlun castle, which was built by one of Saladin’s generals in 1184 AD. They were getting ready for a special event and it was fun to see the castle decorated in what we imagine was appropriate furnishings, etc.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/68806776@N ... 393277709/

On the way to Petra, we drove to Mount Nebo, which is the site of some events which involved Moses, including his (possible) burial. If you know me, you know I’m not well-versed in biblical doings and some of what we saw was wasted on me. There’s a church at Mt. Nebo which shelters some ancient mosaics and the last Pope visited there several years ago. You can look across the Jordan valley (actually part of the Great Rift) and see Israel on the other side of the Dead Sea. Moses and his brother are said to be buried nearby—if you’re interested in Biblical history, Jordan’s got a LOT of it!

Along the way, we also stopped at a church in Madaba, which has the oldest remaining mosaic map of what was then the “known world. Interesting, especially when you consider how carefully it’s been preserved during times of the crusades and other religious wars. If you’re interested, here’s a place to begin reading.

http://www.christusrex.org/www1/ofm/mad ... aning.html

When we arrived at our hotel, the Movenpick Petra, we were all AWESTRUCK at the wonderful design and style. Here’s a little link¦.. http://www.moevenpick-hotels.com/media/ ... start.html

The hotel is just a few steps from the entrance to Petra, so it was a great location, in addition to being lovely. I’d go back there in a heartbeat! (Arab hospitality has always been legendary, and although, sadly, political events have changed the way tourists are perceived, the people we met in service jobs were just delightful! The language is hard to describe—“flowery might give you an idea. A simple “good morning turns into “may the sun brighten your day, Madam and bring you back to us. People there were lovely!)

We left the hotel early the next morning and walked through the “siq (a narrow, dark passage through rocky walls) which you HAVE seen in many films and books about ancient history. This was the original way into Petra. It was designed to impress visitors and it’s still doing that, very well!

Petra was built by the Nabatean people who were influenced by Greeks, Romans and Egyptian in their architecture, mythology and business customs. Since Petra was on the old caravan route, the Nabateans offered hospitality, supplies and protection to the caravans which carried spices, fabrics, valuable commodities such as incense, myrrh and frankincense.

When you walk through the siq, you see the water delivery system which still works and, in some areas, you walk on the original hand-carved stones. (You may’ve seen photos of people on horseback going through the siq. This isn’t allowed anymore, since the problem of horse “exhaust makes it an unpleasant passage and is very distracting when you’re trying to look UP at the rocky walls and find yourself ankle-deep in horse “doo.)

Eventually, you see a sliver of light at the end of the siq¦.and there’s “the treasury, which is as stunning today as it must’ve been two thousand years ago! You’re met by camels (you KNOW you want to sit on one and get a photo!) and people selling postcards, hats, etc. But they’re much more respectful than in many countries and it’s possible to spend time gazing in awe at the glorious architecture of this building! (By the way, recent excavation has discovered a lower floor! This means that what’s always thought to have been a 3-story façade is, in fact, at least FOUR “stories, and I’m sure the archaeologists are just beside themselves, excavating carefully and dreaming of what’s to come.)

Once you can tear yourself away from “the treasury, you round a sort of corner and realize that the cliffs on both sides of you are literally honeycombed with tombs—tombs built in many styles and heights. What nobody ever tells you is that the sandstone in the Petra area is GLORIOUSLY colorful! Ribbons of color wind through the stone—it’s not an overstatement to call it “magical in effect. The actual CITY of ancient Petra has been worn away by time¦but the tombs, sheltered in the canyon, are still visible. Interesting to contemplate that, isn’t it?

You’ll probably be walking toward the restaurant which is about a mile and a half away. You’ll pass rest stops, vendors, little boys selling donkey rides, and little Bedouin girls selling pieces of sandstone. You can purchase books, postcards, jewelry, fabric—all of which have to be carried OUT, of course.

Interestingly, one of our group decided to walk on ahead by herself. She was about an hour or so ahead of us and we had a little concern about her. Khaled asked the Bedouin vendors about her—they all knew exactly where she was, based on her clothing, hair color and the fact that she had a cane. Very observant, the Bedouin!

If you were a serious student of archaeology, it’s not unreasonable to estimate you’d spend a week, exploring and climbing through all the various tombs and temples in the area. I had NO IDEA it’s so big. And stunning!

I can only compare it to the Taj Mahal—you simply cannot stop taking photos, even though they’re BUILDINGS and don’t move! (Someday, when you visit Petra, you’ll see what I mean. You’ll also want to bring MUCH more film/memory cards than you think you’ll need.)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/68806776@N ... 393284483/



The same is true for Wadi Rum, which is now a national park/“protected zone.

This is where Lawrence of Arabia lived for several years and where he organized the Arabs, leading them down to Aqaba, to defeat the Turks. It’s stunningly beautiful and I’d have given a lot to spend the night there—the moon was full and I can only imagine the stars! We visited a siq which has ancient drawings of animals which hunters hoped to attract. Elephants, giraffe, antelope—thousands of years ago, the area was a lush savanna, and although the hunters and the animals are long gone, their hopes and myths remain on the rock walls of that siq. I was touched.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/68806776@N ... 397679717/

Poor Lawrence and his friends had to ride camels down to the Red Sea at Aqaba¦we took a comfortable van and got there in only a few hours! (I’m sure our BUMS were more comfortable, too!) It’s a busy international port and several cruise lines stop there to arrange for passengers to visit the various sites in Jordan. We spent a relaxing afternoon on a small glass-bottomed boat, seeing coral, a shipwreck and colorful fish. The sunset/simultaneous moonrise was stunning¦

http://www.flickr.com/photos/68806776@N ... 393269963/

Finally, we made our way to the Dead Sea (don’t swim in it¦don’t taste it, either!) and were taken to see Bethany, on the Jordan River, where Jesus was supposedly baptized. Several groups of foreign tourists were bathing in that river, less than 20 feet from a very SERIOUS fence, on the Israeli border. Some equally SERIOUS young men with automatic weapons were on the other side.

Did I see what I’d hoped to see in Jordan? Absolutely! Would I go back? Probably not..at least, not until the hostilities are ended. We received many resentful GLARES and sneers while stopped at red lights along our way. We heard hisses and felt the cold resentment of people we passed on the street. I’m sorry about that.

I prefer to remember the sweet young man who tended our room in Petra and who brought me a bag of ice for my knee, telling me he hoped that Allah brought me back on a better day, so that I might enjoy the ruins while feeling less pain.

You're welcome. Hope it wasn't boring. But people who love travel will understand. Those who don't...won't.

Lulu - this is a wonderful thread. And a blissful change, grin. I've never been in the Middle East at all, though one of my professors went there last year and his overall impression was that he was just bowled over by the history, the antiquity. You write so well too, I almost felt I was there with you. Do hope your knee is on the mend!! Again, thank you !!!!

A'P...I've been to several middle-eastern countires and even more Muslim ones. It's always interesting. I've always enjoyed Arab cities...they smell good! (Spices, etc,) and the architecture is fascinating.

If you like, some day I'll tell you about Zanzibar!

I'd love to hear that, Lulu!!! You said you were a kind of teacher ?? My Mum used to go in for musical comedy and I grew up on them. Grin. One of my favourites was Chu Chin Chow - which had a song about exotic foods including 'lizards from Zanzibar'. Things you remember!!!

Are you serious? I never want to bore people...but Zanzibar was a GREAT experience! I'll be happy to share. Unfortunately, I only have video...no photos.

Total awesome trip LULU2 I also felt as if I was there. Your writting and the pictures are amazing I have totally enjoyed reading every word of your amazing journey thanky you for sharing, makes me want to pack my bags and travel got the bug again..:-6 :-6

HAH...it's insidious, isn't it Carla? You say to yourself, "Well, I can't take another trip this year because I need to do ______ or save up for _____" and then....something starts to ITCH....

:rolleyes:

Oh, yes...I know!

Grin!! Of course I'm serious.

Great stories from a great storyteller

Thank you Lulu :-6

Excellent post Lulu, though I expected no less from you, I have never been to the middle east though I would love to see many parts of it, but in the current climate I don't want to go there, too complicated. Your descriptions and your encounters are similar to those I have heard of my friends who have been to other lands in the middle east in terms of the general arab, semetic, perisan, turkic cultures there, all overlaid (mostly) with the Islamic religion, there are many, many different peoples and histories in the region, just as their are here in Europe where I am. Thank you, I really enjoyed your post, though I am also quite glad that you are safe and home again, I am currently reading Robert Fisks book on the Middle East and the conclicts of the past 40 years, its an absoutely brilliant, brilliant book so I am thinking a lot about that part of the world at the minute.

Far from boring. You brought me there briefly, thank you. Too bad about the final statement concerning sneers and hissing. Perhaps one day we will "see"

Yes, it was too bad, but it was a part of the experience. In general, I think we need to just "look through/past" those situations we find unpleasant while traveling.

Many people've told me they could NEVER travel to India or Bangladesh, for example, due to the poverty. Make no mistake--it's visible and it's a HUGE factor in life there. But, we have to remember that people living WITHIN that mind-set or financial situation don't usually perceive it the way we do.

Many people in Jordan hate the West for religious and social reasons. Red-haired, blue-eyed, milky-skinned ME stood out there like a beacon--I was an immediate target and they made as many assumptions about me as I made about them, I suppose.

The better part was trying to find traces of the legendary Arab hospitality or to catch the eye of a child and make him laugh with a funny face or crossed eyes. If we could just get down to the basics of the human experience.....

lulu , do tell us about zansibar and anywhere else you have been. you describe jordan so well i feel like i was there. it is fascinating.....

Thanks, Guppy!

Hasn't Zanzibar always sounded like the most exotic place on earth? When I was little, I heard of Kathmandu, Timbuktu and Zanzibar and thought I'd probably never get to see them, although I pictured them, in my mind.

I've seen enough photos of Timbuktu and heard how difficult it is to get there (:rolleyes: ,) so I've taken it off the list!

On my last trip to Tanzania, we flew over to Zanzibar and stayed in a wonderful hotel which used to be the palace of a sultan! It's right on the sea wall, and in the evening, you can sit on the deck with a glass of wine and watch the dhows set sail for night fishing. I had one of the best lobster dinners of my LIFE on the terrace there!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dhow (These're good photos of dhows. It's fun to watch them, because there're usually a couple of men in the stern, bailing like crazy.)

http://zanzibar.net/zanzibar/hotels/zanzibar_serena_inn (There's a link to the hotel.)

Zanzibar was very powerful in the days of slavery. Spices have always been grown on the island and the Arabs discovered that slaves were as valuable to markets in Europe as the spices they sold.

Someday, when you go there, you'll be taken to the quarters where slaves were held before being loaded onto the transport ships. Slavery has always been a part of life in Africa! Tribes took slaves as prisoners of war in their disputes and many of them used these slaves to haul ivory, hardwoods, pelts, etc, down to the ports where the whole lot would be sold to Arabs. It was rather like selling the transport AND the cargo, and it solved several problems, including having to FEED those slaves.

(I'm always irritated when people imply that Europeans/North Americans are responsible for slavery. That simply is not true! Certainly, they exploited it, but the trade had been in existence for centuries before anyone else got involved.)

The old section of Zanzibar city is called "Stone Town," because buildings were constructed of stone. The slave quarters were cramped and miserable and were built so that the rising tide would sweep through and carry out the waste from the people held there.

A heartbreaking sculpture, consisting of life-sized figures in chains, marks the place from where they were loaded onto ships and taken away...it's "the place where you lay down your heart." The Anglican church was among the first to raise a voice against slavery in that part of Africa and it's possible to visit the building where speeches were given against it, to arouse the consciences of people who governed the colony.

We had a local guide who took us into the market, which is an incredibly DAZZLING experience, twisting/turning streets, narrow and dark, cobbled and difficult to walk on. You're looking up (intricately carved wooden balconies soar over the street) and you're looking down (you're trying to keep your shoes out of the various liquids which're running in the gutters.) People are slaughtering animals, hanging carcassas, haggling over vegetables and fruits, selling cloth...everything you could imagine is undoubtedly for sale there!

Because it's a conservative Muslim culture, it's rare to see women outside the home, shopping, etc. Men do that. Because we were in the obvious company of "a local," and tourism isn't uncommon there, we had no trouble...but I'd NEVER have set out on my own. I'd've been lost within minutes!

I just found this link....

http://www.pps.org/great_public_spaces/ ... ace_id=392

The countryside consists of small farms, spice processing plants, and little villages. It's a very poor island. The people are an interesting mix of black African and Arabs and the culture reflects that mix.

It's HOT and HUMID and the airport has a "terminal" which consists of a palm-frond roof and no walls! If I were to go again, I'd like to take a ferry over, from Dar Es Salaam..wouldn't that be fun?

my god. that sounds so exciting. i would love to go visit there one day.

Save money...travel with a small group of friends (you'll get group prices which save $$.) Ideally, you should know ahead of time what you want to see and then hire a local guide to show you what you SHOULD see! Never automatically dismiss a place because you think it's "poor," or nobody speaks English, etc.

You can do it! If I can do it....anyone can!

you are speaking to the choir chick. i have traveled all over america by myself. i think i can do anything i want. i still have plans to see yellow stone national park....thats next on my list..........and the smithsonian in washington.

Awesome, Lulu !!! You certainly have been to some amazing places!!!! And it's really good of you to share these adventures with us. I'll be reading up on Zanzibar now!!!

I hope that one day westerner's won't be looked on with such distain in places like the Middle East. There is so much history there. Thank you for sharing your travels with us Lulu! The pictures were awesome! :-6

We want more, Lulu!!!

(Are you SURE about that, AussieP? :wah: )

Thinking about travel in Jordan reminded me of a trip I took about a year & a half ago, to Albania. They're similar countries, in many ways.

Albania is impossible to describe! It's contradictory and confusing, infuriating and delightful.

It reminds me of the duality of all things. For example, they had a dictator for about 45 years who shut down the country, isolating Albania from the world. Nobody came in and nobody went out. His name was Enver Hoxha...(say "ho-jah") and he was a communist, through and through, increasingly more radical than the Soviets and the Chinese. People were arrested and thrown into prison, often on nothing more than rumor or falsified charges...sometimes they didn't know WHY they were in prison...just held there indefinitely. It's said that, at the end of his life, he was paranoid and irrational.

The Albanians will tell you that he DID build railroads, roads and electrical systems and thereby improved conditions in the country. The Russians and the Chinese attempted to colonize/infiltrate the country and brought technologies, built apartment houses and factories. So Albanians say THAT was good...even if the philosophies WEREN'T so good. Overall, there was benefit.

However....he's now been "disappeared" from public memory and there were no photographs of him anywhere. Nobody wanted to discuss exactly where his tomb is to be found!

The "National Hero," a fellow named Skanderbeg, staged 22 epic battles against the Turks, in which vastly outnumbered Albanians lost only twice! Unfortunately, he angered the Turks so much that, after his death, poor Albania was subjected to cruel and dedicated occupation by those same soldiers.

The land is mountainous...they speak of the Albanian Alps, with very narrow, fertile valleys in between abruptly thrusting, tortured cliffs. (Earthquakes are a fact of life and much of the exposed rock is millions of years old.) Small farms crowd between the mountain ranges and they have some of the most delicious, organically-raised produce you've ever eaten. Wildflowers were everywhere....poppies, lupins, chamomile and dozens more plants we didn't recognize. Tiny villages are GLUED to the side of the mountains and people get around on sure-footed little donkeys.

(One of my favorite images of Albania is coming upon a young woman, typically riding side-saddle on a donkey. She's on a one-lane path and as our bus squeaks by....she's talking animatedly on a cell-phone!)

They also have some of the most beautiful coastlines I've ever seen! Aquamarine waters, gentle surf from the Adriatic, crystal-clear skies. Two very deep and very old lakes separate the Albanians from Greece, Macedonia and Yugoslavia, while waterfalls, rivers, streams and springs make the landscape look as green as Ireland!

And because they have NO infrastructures to deal with it...the land is HEAPED with trash, the shores of the lakes are clogged with it, and people just dump randomly along the roadsides. It's heart-breaking! On their behalf, if you've got nobody to pick UP your trash, bins are overflowing and everyone ELSE drops it where they want, your "culture" will begin to accept junk everywhere. Sad, but true.

Something mysterious has happened to the birds, too--there should be thousands of water birds, raptors and song birds...but we saw only a handful. We could only guess at the reasons.

Other infrastructure problems are....some of the worst roads anywhere (pot-holes abound) and illegal buildings, thrown up by squatters anywhere they fancy. Vehicles include Mercedes cars (they last longer,) tractors carrying four or five people, donkey carts, mules, horse carts, motorcyles, bicycles, buses...all on the same road at the same time! Traffic and bad roads make ANY journey slow and frustrating.

Because of these problems, Albania has no tourist industry whatsoever! They see a few groups of Germans who come to enjoy the beaches, but they were astonished and GAPED, open-mouthed when they realized we were "Amerikani." The first question they asked was "how many years do you have?" They wanted to know why we'd come to Albania, and they wanted to know what we think of George Bush. Since Albanian has almost no common words with English, many of our conversations were with school children who translated for their parents! AND--THEY HAVE NO SOUVENIER STORES! (This put us all into shock, of course...no shop-ops!)

Considering that they were encouraged to spy on and report their neighbors for decades, the people we met were amazingly friendly (once they recovered from their SHOCK at seeing us) and we were treated to some sincerely touching acts of kindness. One ancient woman,. toothless, wrinkled, wearing black clothing and a head scarf, brought chairs out of her house and insisted we sit in the shade by her door, while waiting for someone to bring the key to an interesting old Byzantine church. She treated us like honored guests, rather than the chattering mob of strangers we were. Another woman in a VERY small village (only ten families live there) INSISTED that we see her house, offered us food and proudly demonstrated how her family lives, isolated and self-sufficient, through long, snowy winters.

Another encouraging fact is that, although they're about 70% Muslim, they're VERY moderate. We only saw a few veiled women....young girls there wear what young girls wear here...midriff-baring outfits, painted-on jeans, navels winking, trotting along on ridiculous shoes, etc. We were told that, although fundamentalist Muslims make noise every now & then about clamping down on the population, Albanians laugh at them. During the Hoxha times, people learned to get along without public religion (it was forbidden, OF COURSE) and now they're very tolerant of one another's faith.

People have been living in the area for over 4,000 years. Originally from the Russian steppes, they were the Illyrians who were conquered by the Greeks, then the Romans, then the Ottoman Turks, the Serbs, Venetians, the Germans, the Italians, and miscellaneous attempts to steal territory by surrounding countries. Albania used to be MUCH bigger before it was divided up after various wars. Even the U.S. launched some spy invasions during communist times which were betrayed by Kim Philby--planes were shot down and our people were killed.

Democracy didn't get started until about 12-15 years ago and they've got HUGE "catching up" ahead. Considering their history and the almost overwhelming problems they face, you've just GOT to wish them well. Elections will be held on July 3rd and it'll be interesting to see who gets into office. Many people actively want the communist system back, because it's easier. (As it is in Russia, there are a couple of generations who believed that the State would care for them in their old age. They've now become impoverished and have nothing, since State pensions account for less than $200 a month.)

It's definitely not for the average "tourist" or even for someone traveling alone (unless you happen to speak Albanian.) You'd be INSANE to try renting a car and driving on the unmarked, pot-holed roads and finding lodging could be very dicey! Food is monotonous...lamb, mutton, goat, trout, salads three times a day. But, in ten or fifteen years, they'll have the potential to rival the French riviera, with gambling, hotels and gorgeous beaches. There are fascinating ruins of castles, Byzantine churches, Roman and Greek artifacts. At the moment, you have to scale hills and climb mountain paths to get to many of them, but that can be improved with time and, to an historian, it's a real opportunity to see so much in one place.

Oh--did I mention they make a very good beer? It's called Tirana. Be sure to raise your glass and say something which (phonetically) sounds like "GAZOOAH!" Just a bit of research I did for you, so you'll know what to order when you go.

Here's something I forgot to tell you..when Albanians want to indicate "yes," they say "po" and wobble their heads from side to side (the way WE would say "NO.") If they want to say "no"...they NOD and say "yo."

This gets very confusing when foreigners are asked if they want soup, for example, and nod their heads up & down. The waiter thinks you've said you DON'T want the soup!

here's another thing I forgot to tell you...out in the country, people still hang garlic wreaths on their doors! In fact, our bus had a garlic head hanging on the mirror.

"Evil eye" is still a reality, it seems.

Another excellent post, Albania is a fascinating place, its right there, slap bang in Europe a few short miles across the adriatic to Brindisi and modern Europe and from as you describe it, you could be taking a trip back across 5 centuries. I know something of the place, I've read misha glenny's book on the balkans, though no specific books on albania itself, its well known for being a place unto itself though. I read your post with delight, you have a good ability to get information and ideas across, if I was an editor again I might hire you! I just hope that as albania does inevitable open up somewhat to the modern world that it doesn't become another stop in some godawful corporate inspired tour stop on the "Euro-culture-lite-tour for those places that we havn't already turned into real-life theme parks", (plus convinent-travel-meal-and-bed-bath-all-in-one-drive-thrus, computer game consols on trees for the kids, and non refundable holiday-insurance-cum-chalet-mortgage-financial-investment schemes), of course. I expect Irish people to start buying up property there any day now, we've gone through most of the ex-eastern block states now, and are left only with the option of buying up turkey or white Russia at this stage, but thats another days story, Jenny will know what I'm talking about.

The Albanians I spoke with were AVID for foreign investors! They have many problems, however, and the first is lack of infrastructure. Without roads, you can't get into places and without transportation, you can't provide electricity, water and other services (such as trash removal!)

I'm still deeply disturbed by the lack of bird life....something there is WRONG!

Thank you - three magnificent travelogues that make you feel as if you've been there yourself.

Petra has been a long held ambition of mine and I'll seriously consider the other two also.

BTW, did you ever read John Brunner's Stand On Zanzibar?

Guppy, I had a brain fa#t and forgot to say that I visited the Smithsonians by myself and felt that's the ONLY way to do it! That way, you look only at what attracts you and nobody else is standing there, tapping an impatient foot and looking at their watch! :wah:

Bryn, you must not go to Albania without a local guide! Even ours got lost from time to time on unmarked roads. You find your way by stopping in a village and ASKING someone how to get to your destination. They have NO "regular" tourist itineraries, etc, and although they want tourism, as yet they're just not ready.

Lulu2;476224 wrote:

Bryn, you must not go to Albania without a local guide! Even ours got lost from time to time on unmarked roads. You find your way by stopping in a village and ASKING someone how to get to your destination. They have NO "regular" tourist itineraries, etc, and although they want tourism, as yet they're just not ready.


'Tis a shame, half the fun of driving round central Turkey was navigating by sign language - but I'll take serious note of your warning and play safe.

Unless you speak Albanian....you'd be up the proverbial creek!

Gosh, Lulu!!!!!! I'm so glad you posted that. You really know how to bring a place to life.!!!!!! Thank you. You've had some utterly amazing adventures.

Here's another, AussieP! For SOME reason, I'm enjoying an atmosphere away from the board tonight!

Have you ever heard someone ask what happened to the Maya? Guess what? They're still there!

We went to Guatemala primarily to see Maya ruins, but we were all charmed by the many native markets we visited in the highlands. It's absolutely a step back in time, seeing the wonderfully colorful native costumes still woven and worn by women (and men.)

Some day, when YOU go to Guatemala, I hope you'll attend Sunday mass in Chichicastenango! The Catholic church has held a powerful influence there for centuries, only because it tolerates the very active practice of shamanism.

Behind the priest sit 10 indians, in full ethnic dress, holding relics which symbolize their special status within the village. Their presence gives authority and permission to the priest.

Down the center aisle of the church are many concrete rectangles (maybe 3' by 4') and these are the altars which the shamans use, sometimes alone and sometimes with their petitioners. During the mass, these people are also busy praying, lighting candles, sprinkling rum and flower petals, whispering ancient prayers to ancient spirits.

At the end of the mass, the priest moves throughout the church, sprinkling holy water, blessing everyone. He also blesses the shamans' altars, quietly acknowledging their use and their importance.

DAMN! Does the Vatican know about this? (Many of the churches we saw have ancient Maya symbols incorporated into their altars and outer decorations. Luckily, we had a guide who's fascinated by the comparison of Maya/Christian myths, and he made sure we saw the two-headed bird and the symbol of the corn god, etc, hidden by the native artisans who decorated the churches for the unknowing priests.)

Meanwhile, outside the church, a busy and almost bedazzling market is in full swing! People are selling flowers, fruit, vegetables, weavings and textiles of all kinds, toys, shoes, chickens, candles, incense, lime for tortillas, and countless items for tourists.

One man is telling fortunes--he has a canary which "chooses" folded pieces of paper for each petitioner. The papers are unfolded to reveal the future. (Interestingly, I saw this exact system used in rural China.)

These are SMALL people, and I often found myself up to my armpits in Guatemalans rushing here and there!

(I probably don't need to tell you we did A LOT of shopping! We bought bags, table runners, scarves and beautiful woven pieces, often from womens' cooperatives, created to encourage the continued practice of local weaving and crafts.)

You'll want to book your room in the Maya Inn in Chichicastenango, which is a restored colonial building. Each room is unique, furnished with antique furniture. Your room comes with a "right hand man" who serves your dinner and answers the bell in your room, so he can light the fire in your fireplace. By luck of the draw, my companion and I had a three-room suite! There are no locks on the antique doors--none are needed, it seems. Once everyone is in for the night, the outer doors are locked and you're safely tucked in!

Another place I hope you'll visit is Lake Atitlan. It lies between two beautiful volcanos and was sacred to the ancient people. When you take a boat across the lake, you'll feel the same sense of wonder that the Maya did. I promise! It's surely one of the most beautiful lakes I've ever seen.

The ruins at Quirigua, Ceibal, Yaxha, Tikal and Copan (ok, this one's in Honduras, but it's only minutes away) are mysterious and a challenge to visit, buried as they are in the middle of rain forest. Almost every year, archaeologists are making new discoveries about the people who built them and the connections which existed all over the Maya world--as far away as Teotihuacan, near Mexico City. (Wear sturdy shoes, long pants and take a walking stick.)

Luckily, these ruins are in protected parks, which insures a safe home for the howler and spider monkeys, agoutis, coatis, toucans, woodpeckers and, sorry to say, VORACIOUS mosquitos--who ignored our pathetic attempts to wear repellant and thoroughly enjoyed the "foreign food" we represented! (Note to self..next time, soak butt in repellant before sitting down to eat at an outdoor restaurant!)

(The obvious question is "What happened to the people?" The answer is that constant warfare, tribal struggles, over-use and degradation of the environment caused a collapse in the economic and social system. It's not such a huge leap to look at the "mound cultures" of the peoples of our own Mississippi valley to consider that remnants of the Maya civilization might have made their way northward, just as Guatemalans do today...and for the same reasons. I'm looking forward to seeing Mel Gibson's "Apocalypto" because I understand he makes these points.)

People were kind, gracious and highly tolerant of our abuse of their language!

Most people spoke Spanish, even though their "mother tongue" was a variety of one of the ancient languages. We were well-treated wherever we went and it was a challenge to bargain with the vendors in the various markets. Of course, we never stood a chance of "besting" them...but it was great fun to haggle for a few Quetzales and to THINK we got a bargain!

Out in the countryside, we passed village after village with a peculiar absence of men! We were told they're in the States, crossing in illegally, sending back all their money to build fine houses in their home towns. Naturally, this puts a huge burden on the women of the village, being mother/father/sole manager of the family. I wonder what will happen once the fathers come home and expect to take over their old "head of household" status? As you near the border with Mexico, you see dozens of businesses which exist to provide supplies for those sneaking into Mexico so they can make their way north and sneak into the States.

It's a land with definite social problems and I'd never travel there by myself (our driver got lost twice!) but if you like history, mythology and travel outside your own world, think about a trip to Guatemala.

Oh--did I mention Gallo beer? I ate everything and washed it down with Gallo and I was the ONLY one who never got the "touristas or "the revenge of the Maya!"

OMG, Lulu!!! You leave my little peregrinations for dead!!!!!!!! I've had a few weird adventures - a few scary ones too - but nothing exotic like these wonderful wanderings.

I did write somewhere else about the neat pagan shrine I found on a hill, where five sandy roads met deep in the Tuscan countryside. The 'Madonna' in the ancient, gnarled oak tree there was obviously Diana, goddess of the moon, the hunt, chastity, childbirth, witchcraft, etc... The Christian Church has always done a good job of 'absorbing' earlier beliefs. Or maybe the converts just kept on keeping on. In their own way.

Gosh, look at the time. 5pm in Australia, East Coast. I gotta get cleaned up and go play socialising.

Now, THAT adventure would just make me SPARKLE! What fun! You need to tell us all about it....or else, send us a link to find your original description.

Australia is the one MAJOR place I've yet to go and have always longed to see. One day....

In response to the person who sent me a private message (asking to be anonymous) and wondered why I'd spend tourist dollars/support an Islamic government.

OF COURSE they treat women like "trash." And, of course, they deny us education and health care and keep us in isolation. I (suppose I) can see your point about not supporting their tourist industry and not supporting their role as a nation in the world of places with value of historical and cultural events.

However, if we don't acknowledge the roles of other nations in the stage of international relations---what will happen?

And if we deny them a place on that stage, how will anyone know how to wage a "war" of strategy against their position of repression for women?

Please...why are you so willing to THINK against the Islamic movement and yet be QUIET?

Oh Lulu !!! GEESCH. The medical research school I worked at had two Iranian PhD students, a husband and wife. I was asked to look after them. The wife had never been outside Iran and had been told that all westerners were the spawn of the devil. After a few months, she told me, in tears, that she was just so amazed to find that Australians are pretty much like Iranians in loads of ways, there are good and bad, nice and nasty. We're all real people. When you travel, you are an ambassador for the values you represent. You give and you receive. You said you hit if off with some of the kids. Maybe those children will grow up and remember this!! Who knows what difference you may already have made towards a more peaceful world.

One hopes so...A'P! I always try to make friends with the children! It's not easy to get past the teachers (who are soooooo f'ing restrictive) but I want to make a friend or two.....

Kids are just COOL! It's not THIER fault that the world they live in is screwed by adults!

AussiePam;477871 wrote: Oh Lulu !!! GEESCH. The medical research school I worked at had two Iranian PhD students, a husband and wife. I was asked to look after them. The wife had never been outside Iran and had been told that all westerners were the spawn of the devil. After a few months, she told me, in tears, that she was just so amazed to find that Australians are pretty much like Iranians in loads of ways, there are good and bad, nice and nasty. We're all real people. When you travel, you are an ambassador for the values you represent. You give and you receive. You said you hit if off with some of the kids. Maybe those children will grow up and remember this!! Who knows what difference you may already have made towards a more peaceful world.


Well said Pam :-6

Isolation and separation are the breeding ground of distrust and hatred. It's easy to hate the stranger you never meet but far more difficult to hate Bill and Jane you see daily - assuming Bill and Jane treat you as human beings.