Question for car mechanics

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Odie
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Post by Odie »

I wasn't low on brake fluid, but decided to top it up.

but I over-topped it.

does it matter that some over-flowed?

Should I wash it off?



does it matter that its filled to the brim, will some leak-out?

thank you
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CARLA
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Post by CARLA »

It usually just burns off not to worry, better its topped off then empty. It should only be filled to the line indicated. I don't know what kind of car you have but in most cases it just overflow and burns.

It going smoke and expands in heat so you might want to siphon some out with a Turkey basters they work great. You would hate to have it fry some coils or wires.
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Odie
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Post by Odie »

CARLA;1238243 wrote: It usually just burns off not to worry, better its topped off then empty. It should only be filled to the line indicated. I don't know what kind of car you have but in most cases it just overflow and burns.

It going smoke and expands in heat so you might want to siphon some out with a Turkey basters they work great. You would hate to have it fry some coils or wires.


I know its to the line.....it filled up to quick as there was already lots there.

2001 Neon



I will check for my turkey baster......just not sure if I still have one.



thanks Carla.
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Odie
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Post by Odie »

Hi Carla!

I couldn't find my turkey baster, but did fine an eye dropper, worked well.

thanks a million.....again!:guitarist:guitarist

as my main concern was it leaking and doing some harm....your concern was much higher than mine, that it could damage wires, etc as it expands in the heat, which I should have realized as the container is only plastic.
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CARLA
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Post by CARLA »

Glad it worked and and you can rest easy now.
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Barman
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Post by Barman »

Oh dear, you shouldn't have done that. It is very possible that the car will now explode into a zillion bits within the next 50 miles.

Loan it out for a while.;)
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Odie
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Post by Odie »

CARLA;1238309 wrote: Glad it worked and and you can rest easy now.


yes....feel much better now......how can you tell I am new at this?:yh_rotfl:yh_rotfl
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Odie
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Post by Odie »

Barman;1238310 wrote: Oh dear, you shouldn't have done that. It is very possible that the car will now explode into a zillion bits within the next 50 miles.

Loan it out for a while.;)


okay smart one, here's one for you:

I had my rotors replaced.......yes, just the rotors....the pads are fine, very thick.

my brakes feel really squishy now and I brake very easily because of it.....

-I phoned and asked the guy why the rotors would make the brakes squishy....as I have to put them to the ground and its very scary.

he said they may have to be bled, which I understand and know about...

but why would he charge me 10.00 to do that?

it has to do with after they changed the rotors.:rolleyes:
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Post by Betty Boop »

Barman;1238310 wrote: Oh dear, you shouldn't have done that. It is very possible that the car will now explode into a zillion bits within the next 50 miles.

Loan it out for a while.;)


You are pure evil :wah::wah:

If I've got any concerns about my car I always make sure I go and take a look when my mate next door is out working on his, he does a lot of his own repairs so I collar him for help :D
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Post by CARLA »

He should have bleed them to begin with. :thinking: Sometimes if your master cylinder is going out your brakes will get squisky and go all the way to the floor. In this case its most likely they need bleeding.
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Odie
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Post by Odie »

CARLA;1238436 wrote: He should have bleed them to begin with. :thinking: Sometimes if your master cylinder is going out your brakes will get squisky and go all the way to the floor. In this case its most likely they need bleeding.


I thought they should have been bled, don't think its the master cylinder, as it happened when I pulled out of their lot after they changed the rotors.

awful co-incidence...sure hope its not the master cylinder.

so why am I paying to have them bled when they should have?
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CARLA
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Post by CARLA »

You shouldn't but $10.00 is cheap if he does it right.
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Odie
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Post by Odie »

CARLA;1238485 wrote: You shouldn't but $10.00 is cheap if he does it right.


true....he said 5 or 10.00, so good enough.

thanks Carla, your now my IT expert, Mechanic and a good friend.:-4
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CARLA
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Post by CARLA »

Any time I have been on my own for most of my life my dad taught me how to work on Cars which I love. The IT world pay the bills and I'm a Geekett.. :wah:
ALOHA!!

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Odie
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Post by Odie »

CARLA;1238507 wrote: Any time I have been on my own for most of my life my dad taught me how to work on Cars which I love. The IT world pay the bills and I'm a Geekett.. :wah:


I know the IT world pays your bills, your lucky to be so experienced!

You even told me about Avast...and its awesome!

Now that I am on my own, I did learn a lot from my X, but not everything, far from it......especially when I know mechanics are out to get you for more money.

I also worked as a receptionist/admin at a Chrysler dealership for 10 years..so I noticed just how much the service advisers pushed for so many things that they didn't need.:-5:-5:-5





years ago, while driving to work, I noticed my anti-freeze leaking so I pulled over and left it with a mechanic......he phoned me later and said I needed a new rad..........350.00

then I called my X, and he said, do not have him touch it......I just filled up the anti-freeze last night.....its just an overflow.

thank god my X was around.....as that's all it was.:-5:-5
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Post by Nomad »

If Im to believe the mechanics Ive spoken with the pads should be replaced when replacing the rotors.

The reason being the pads are grooved and worn to the groove and wear of the old rotors.

When you apply the brakes repeatedly you are grooving the new rotors unevenly.

Ive done what you did and couldnt live with it because of the chatter I was getting so I had the pads replaced.

You might be fine though, Im just passing on what Ive been told. Mustang might be able to set the record straight.
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Post by gmc »

Odie;1238408 wrote: okay smart one, here's one for you:

I had my rotors replaced.......yes, just the rotors....the pads are fine, very thick.

my brakes feel really squishy now and I brake very easily because of it.....

-I phoned and asked the guy why the rotors would make the brakes squishy....as I have to put them to the ground and its very scary.

he said they may have to be bled, which I understand and know about...

but why would he charge me 10.00 to do that?

it has to do with after they changed the rotors.:rolleyes:


I take it you mean the brake discs? He should have changed the pads as well-as nomad says they would be grooved possibly cause juddering and would be less effective--and checked the fluid and bled them as a matter of course. If a mechanic told me they perhaps needed bled after he had just fitted new discs it would rather suggest he hadn't checked they work after fitting them. Sounds like you need a new mechanic.

Are ypu on a motoring organisation like the RAC or AA -or whatever the equivalent is in canada? Here their legal services would help you if you thought you wee being charged for jobs that weren't actually done properly-brake faults can kill you and if in an accident a fault in the car caused it you would find the insurance company less inclined to pay out for your losses.
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Post by Odie »

Nomad;1238557 wrote: If Im to believe the mechanics Ive spoken with the pads should be replaced when replacing the rotors.

The reason being the pads are grooved and worn to the groove and wear of the old rotors.

When you apply the brakes repeatedly you are grooving the new rotors unevenly.

Ive done what you did and couldnt live with it because of the chatter I was getting so I had the pads replaced.

You might be fine though, Im just passing on what Ive been told. Mustang might be able to set the record straight.


I know, as they explained this, but my pads are thick, as my X saw them and showed them to me, so why spend another 200.00?

I have no chatter, just very soft brakes now, right to the floor if need be, and that is not stopping fast.

so he said he will bled them Tuesday, to make me feel safe again.

hoping that's all it is.
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Post by gmc »

Odie;1238618 wrote: I know, as they explained this, but my pads are thick, as my X saw them and showed them to me, so why spend another 200.00?

I have no chatter, just very soft brakes now, right to the floor if need be, and that is not stopping fast.

so he said he will bled them Tuesday, to make me feel safe again.

hoping that's all it is.


He should have done that at the time, and brake pads don't cost anywhere near 200 even in dollars. he shouldn't have let it out the door in such an unsafe condition. When was the last time he changed the brake fluid? I can't believe you are going back to the same mechanic. New discs for my almera (think it's the same name in canada) cost £111 the pads were £30 and they changed the brake fluid and bled the system as a matter of course, there is VAT on top of that @17.5% but even so 200 for pads? . None of my business but I think you are being conned something rotten. Repairs like that can kill you.
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Post by Odie »

gmc;1238664 wrote: He should have done that at the time, and brake pads don't cost anywhere near 200 even in dollars. he shouldn't have let it out the door in such an unsafe condition. When was the last time he changed the brake fluid? I can't believe you are going back to the same mechanic. New discs for my almera (think it's the same name in canada) cost £111 the pads were £30 and they changed the brake fluid and bled the system as a matter of course, there is VAT on top of that @17.5% but even so 200 for pads? . None of my business but I think you are being conned something rotten. Repairs like that can kill you.


its not unsafe..the breaks work fine....it was me who insisted on no brake pads.
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Post by gmc »

Odie;1238666 wrote: its not unsafe..the breaks work fine....it was me who insisted on no brake pads.


If they work fine why are you taking it back? Look it's up to you. If you trust the mechanic why didn't you take his advice? Don't know about you but my time is worth more than a mechanics and taking a car back again costs me money.

I've been ripped off by garages so often I'm not really in a position to give anyone advice. I've had garages tell me I can't change gear properly after they've fitted a clutch the mechanic telling me it was because the choke was out and that what the problem was-in a diesel car. I've put a car in specifically to have the rear brake shoes changed only to go back and them tell me I need new brake shoes and I'd have to bring it back and present me with a bill for the mechanics time. I like main dealerships because if you have the nerve to stand in the showroom and make a scene when they do something wrong or try and rip you off they back down pretty quickly. That last one was a classic that had the service manager hiding in his office rather than come out to see me and refusing to give me the car unless I paid but unfortunately for him the MD happened to be there, while perhaps not being disposed to intervene he recognised me and knew one of my relatives was a lawyer and that this was not going to go away quietly. I got my car back but needless to say changed garages. I've had garages charge for servicing but actually not do anything there was another that changed the tyre pressures to the wrong pressures and the first roundabout I came to the car went straight on instead of turning and I almost crashed it's the closest I've come to thumping a service manager when he told me it wouldn't make that much difference. I trust the one I deal with now but only up to a point.
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Post by Odie »

gmc;1238677 wrote: If they work fine why are you taking it back? Look it's up to you. If you trust the mechanic why didn't you take his advice? Don't know about you but my time is worth more than a mechanics and taking a car back again costs me money.

I've been ripped off by garages so often I'm not really in a position to give anyone advice. I've had garages tell me I can't change gear properly after they've fitted a clutch the mechanic telling me it was because the choke was out and that what the problem was-in a diesel car. I've put a car in specifically to have the rear brake shoes changed only to go back and them tell me I need new brake shoes and I'd have to bring it back and present me with a bill for the mechanics time. I like main dealerships because if you have the nerve to stand in the showroom and make a scene when they do something wrong or try and rip you off they back down pretty quickly. That last one was a classic that had the service manager hiding in his office rather than come out to see me and refusing to give me the car unless I paid but unfortunately for him the MD happened to be there, while perhaps not being disposed to intervene he recognised me and knew one of my relatives was a lawyer and that this was not going to go away quietly. I got my car back but needless to say changed garages. I've had garages charge for servicing but actually not do anything there was another that changed the tyre pressures to the wrong pressures and the first roundabout I came to the car went straight on instead of turning and I almost crashed it's the closest I've come to thumping a service manager when he told me it wouldn't make that much difference. I trust the one I deal with now but only up to a point.




The place I went to, I have been before for lots of things.

They're a huge chain across Canada and the US, their specialty is brake repairs.



It's not just a mechanic who works in divey shops.



The brakes are squishy as explained, they need to be bled, and needless to say I am going to question him why this wasn't done.



He changed the rotors only, but as Carla said, they should have been bled.....

no, I am not happy, but going back there is better than going elsewhere and starting all over again,.



oh and I hate dealerships, worked for one for 15 years, the service advisers talk you into things you don't need as they are on a bonus system.;)



and at 96.00 an hour.....no thanks.......
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Post by Bryn Mawr »

Odie;1238408 wrote: okay smart one, here's one for you:

I had my rotors replaced.......yes, just the rotors....the pads are fine, very thick.

my brakes feel really squishy now and I brake very easily because of it.....

-I phoned and asked the guy why the rotors would make the brakes squishy....as I have to put them to the ground and its very scary.

he said they may have to be bled, which I understand and know about...

but why would he charge me 10.00 to do that?

it has to do with after they changed the rotors.:rolleyes:


If he changed the disks without changing the pads then it will take a while for the pair to bed in together.

If they need bleeding then that's his problem - he should not be charging you extra to do a proper job. Putting in new disks should have raised the level of fluid in the reservoir (because the new disks are thicker) so if you felt the need to add more then it is possible that he let the callipers work their way too far our of the cylinder and let fluid leak out and air in - his fault and his to fix.

Make sure you wash any spilt fluid off as it is corrosive (as well as being a very good paint stripper) and also rots rubber on contact.
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Post by Odie »

Bryn Mawr;1238815 wrote: If he changed the disks without changing the pads then it will take a while for the pair to bed in together.

If they need bleeding then that's his problem - he should not be charging you extra to do a proper job. Putting in new disks should have raised the level of fluid in the reservoir (because the new disks are thicker) so if you felt the need to add more then it is possible that he let the callipers work their way too far our of the cylinder and let fluid leak out and air in - his fault and his to fix.

Make sure you wash any spilt fluid off as it is corrosive (as well as being a very good paint stripper) and also rots rubber on contact.


Thanks Bryn, see he never mentioned the disks....

The brake fluid was fine, as my X checks it weekly, I just topped it up and I did wash off the overflow as Carla said to do.



I will be asking him...trust me, why they never bled the breaks.:-5:-5



and why I'm paying for this.
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Post by Bryn Mawr »

Odie;1238824 wrote: Thanks Bryn, see he never mentioned the disks....

The brake fluid was fine, as my X checks it weekly, I just topped it up and I did wash off the overflow as Carla said to do.



I will be asking him...trust me, why they never bled the breaks.:-5:-5



and why I'm paying for this.


I'm assuming that disks = rotors
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Post by Odie »

Bryn Mawr;1238830 wrote: I'm assuming that disks = rotors


aren't they different?:confused:
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Post by Bryn Mawr »

Odie;1238857 wrote: aren't they different?:confused:


Then what do you mean by rotors? It does not translate.
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Post by gmc »

Bryn Mawr;1238920 wrote: Then what do you mean by rotors? It does not translate.


I think It's american terminology that's creeping in -the part on my last bill is listed as brake rotor, it's a brake disc by another name. Wonder what they call a rotor arm and do they know it's under the bonnet?
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Post by Bill Sikes »

Including points already made, with extras:

Brake fluid can remove car paintwork. Wash spills off ASAP.

Brake fluid ought to be changed every few years - it's hygroscopic (takes up water from the air, leading to a couple of possible problems).

Changing the discs should not necessitate bleeding the brakes.

If the brakes are "spongy", there's air in the system (or a leak!) and the system needs "bleeding". When you push down the brake pedal, it should come to a hard stop (so should the car; try the brakes when not going along!).

Changing the discs without changing the pads (and changing the pads without changing the discs) can lead to reduced braking efficiency until the components have "bedded in". This is normal, and should't be very noticable.

Systems with antilock braking may have other issues.

What on earth have you got that needs $200-worth of brake pads, or does the fitter wear a lounge suit?
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Post by Carolly »

Bill Sikes;1238982 wrote: Including points already made, with extras:

Brake fluid can remove car paintwork. Wash spills off ASAP.

Brake fluid ought to be changed every few years - it's hygroscopic (takes up water from the air, leading to a couple of possible problems).

Changing the discs should not necessitate bleeding the brakes.

If the brakes are "spongy", there's air in the system (or a leak!) and the system needs "bleeding". When you push down the brake pedal, it should come to a hard stop (so should the car; try the brakes when not going along!).

Changing the discs without changing the pads (and changing the pads without changing the discs) can lead to reduced braking efficiency until the components have "bedded in". This is normal, and should't be very noticable.

Systems with antilock braking may have other issues.

What on earth have you got that needs $200-worth of brake pads, or does the fitter wear a lounge suit?Just thought Id mention what I was quoted from a Ford Garage here in England for Labour Charges £80 an hour plus VAT which takes it to £92 an hour....check out what that is in $.I truely believe the worlds gone mad with these type of charges although thats cheap I guess compared to some other business's here that charge by the hour.
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Post by mikeinie »

Just a point: It is very unusual to have to have your disks (rotors) replaced and not the pads. Discs would be worn out when brake pads get to thin and the metal starts grooving into the disks. Unless your previous brake pads were too thin when you had them replaced last time, but the disks should have been noticed and replaced then as well. Not an issue but strange, that’s all.
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Post by Odie »

mikeinie;1239005 wrote: Just a point: It is very unusual to have to have your disks (rotors) replaced and not the pads. Discs would be worn out when brake pads get to thin and the metal starts grooving into the disks. Unless your previous brake pads were too thin when you had them replaced last time, but the disks should have been noticed and replaced then as well. Not an issue but strange, that’s all.


The car vibrated where the bad rotor was...the pads are fine, trust me, I saw them myself and the mechanic also agreed they were thick as we looked together when he changed the rotors. I buy aftermarket pads, not the crappy ones dealerships here sell.

I know its uncommon to have one but not the other, but in my case, why spend money on break pad and more installation time if they are fine?

It is not doing the car or brakes any harm, as I have checked this out thoroughly before having it done by 3 people. Mike, I am on a really really tough budget now, I will just get them bled Tuesday when I am there for rustproofing.

The rotors/disc were replaced.
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Post by Bill Sikes »

Carolly;1238988 wrote: Just thought Id mention what I was quoted from a Ford Garage here in England for Labour Charges £80 an hour plus VAT which takes it to £92 an hour


Many "Main Dealers" have huge glass palaces and besuited hair-slicked salesmen to maintain.
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Post by Carolly »

Bill Sikes;1239017 wrote: Many "Main Dealers" have huge glass palaces and besuited hair-slicked salesmen to maintain.Trouble is you also tend to pay for there tea breaks and while they take a phone call.I just have no idea where these prices come from they choose to charge.
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Post by Bill Sikes »

Odie;1239014 wrote: I am on a really really tough budget now, I will just get them bled Tuesday when I am there for rustproofing.


You can buy a Gunson's Eezibleed for about £20. Buy it, give it to someone (if you don't want to DIY) together with some beer, and ask them to do it! They're grrrrreat!
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Odie
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Post by Odie »

Bill Sikes;1239021 wrote: You can buy a Gunson's Eezibleed for about £20. Buy it, give it to someone (if you don't want to DIY) together with some beer, and ask them to do it! They're grrrrreat!


I have no idea what your talking about?
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Bill Sikes
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Post by Bill Sikes »

Odie;1239022 wrote: I have no idea what your talking about?


An "Eezibleed" is a thing for bleeding your brakes, which uses a (spare) tyre as a pressure resevoir, and pumps clean new fluid into the system. It's a doddle to use (one person operation).
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Post by Odie »

Bill Sikes;1239032 wrote: An "Eezibleed" is a thing for bleeding your brakes, which uses a (spare) tyre as a pressure resevoir, and pumps clean new fluid into the system. It's a doddle to use (one person operation).


oh can't see me doing that one.
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Post by Bill Sikes »

Odie;1239034 wrote: oh can't see me doing that one.


That's why I suggested giving it to someone as a *useful present*, see below.
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Post by Odie »

Bill Sikes;1239042 wrote: That's why I suggested giving it to someone as a *useful present*, see below.


awesome idea.......but there is no below!:yh_rotfl:yh_rotfl
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Post by shelbell »

Ok odie, sounds like you had a warped rotor, and in that case the rotors needed to be replaced. If you had such thick pads, then the rotors should have been turned when the new pads were put on. Once they are warped, they have to be replaced. Your old pads and new rotors will eventually fit onto each other and shouldn't be a danger. I am worried however that your pedal goes to the floor. That rarely happens unless your master cylider goes out. If they forgot to take the cap off the brake fluid resevoir, that could be major problems for you.

The new rotors are thicker than the old ones, therefore they have to recess the calipers so the pads will fit over the new rotor. When the calipers are recessed it pushes fluid back thru the lines into the resevoir. If the cap was not off, it causes too much pressure and can blow out your master cylinder. This is the reason you're told not to fill the fluid past the maximum line. Bleedin the brakes is supposed to be done, maybe they figured they didn't have to since they just replaced the pads, be they should know better since the calipers had to be recessed. I sure hope bleeding the brakes solve the problem, and if it doesn't that just means they screwed up your master cylinder. Remember...your pedal should NEVER go to the floor!!!
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Odie
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Post by Odie »

shelbell;1239068 wrote: Ok odie, sounds like you had a warped rotor, and in that case the rotors needed to be replaced. If you had such thick pads, then the rotors should have been turned when the new pads were put on. Once they are warped, they have to be replaced. Your old pads and new rotors will eventually fit onto each other and shouldn't be a danger. I am worried however that your pedal goes to the floor. That rarely happens unless your master cylider goes out. If they forgot to take the cap off the brake fluid resevoir, that could be major problems for you.

The new rotors are thicker than the old ones, therefore they have to recess the calipers so the pads will fit over the new rotor. When the calipers are recessed it pushes fluid back thru the lines into the resevoir. If the cap was not off, it causes too much pressure and can blow out your master cylinder. This is the reason you're told not to fill the fluid past the maximum line. Bleedin the brakes is supposed to be done, maybe they figured they didn't have to since they just replaced the pads, be they should know better since the calipers had to be recessed. I sure hope bleeding the brakes solve the problem, and if it doesn't that just means they screwed up your master cylinder. Remember...your pedal should NEVER go to the floor!!!


I will also question the reservoir cap tomorrow.

It did worry me that I almost had to go the floor with the brakes, that was the reason he told me he will bleed them for me........and since you know so much, in detail, I will of course be asking him why this wasn't done and why am I paying for it now.

I will also be asking him if they screwed up my master cylinder.

wish me luck tomorrow, as I damn well know what its like when mechanic see a woman come in.......I am sure he will have a story or two and say my master cylinder must have been gone before I brought it in..........

thanks Shell, you seem to know so much my friend.:-4
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Bill Sikes
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Question for car mechanics

Post by Bill Sikes »

Odie;1239104 wrote: wish me luck tomorrow, as I damn well know what its like when mechanic see a woman come in


Well, beg, steal, or borrow some hairy fellow to go with you, then!
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Odie
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Post by Odie »

Bill Sikes;1239108 wrote: Well, beg, steal, or borrow some hairy fellow to go with you, then!


sounds like a good idea, thanks, are you available?:yh_rotfl
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Bryn Mawr
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Post by Bryn Mawr »

gmc;1238926 wrote: I think It's american terminology that's creeping in -the part on my last bill is listed as brake rotor, it's a brake disc by another name. Wonder what they call a rotor arm and do they know it's under the bonnet?


That was my assumption but Odie suggested that they were different.
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Odie
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Post by Odie »

Bryn Mawr;1239177 wrote: That was my assumption but Odie suggested that they were different.


-just googled and they are the same.

apparently they say rotors in England and discs here..........huh.



learn something new everyday here.......cool!



thanks Bryn!
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shelbell
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Question for car mechanics

Post by shelbell »

Odie;1239104 wrote: I will also question the reservoir cap tomorrow.

It did worry me that I almost had to go the floor with the brakes, that was the reason he told me he will bleed them for me........and since you know so much, in detail, I will of course be asking him why this wasn't done and why am I paying for it now.

I will also be asking him if they screwed up my master cylinder.

wish me luck tomorrow, as I damn well know what its like when mechanic see a woman come in.......I am sure he will have a story or two and say my master cylinder must have been gone before I brought it in..........

thanks Shell, you seem to know so much my friend.:-4


Bryn did make another good point...they may have recessed the calipers to much so they're not fitting onto the rotor like they should.

If your master cylinder was bad before you took it in, you would have had the problem of your pedal going to the floor then...so it wasn't a prior problem.

I only know all this because I was a mechanic for about 7 years and have done hundreds of brake jobs. I love working on cars! :-6
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Odie
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Post by Odie »

shelbell;1239295 wrote: Bryn did make another good point...they may have recessed the calipers to much so they're not fitting onto the rotor like they should.

If your master cylinder was bad before you took it in, you would have had the problem of your pedal going to the floor then...so it wasn't a prior problem.

I only know all this because I was a mechanic for about 7 years and have done hundreds of brake jobs. I love working on cars! :-6


oh darn that's right, I should have remembered you were a mechanic!:-5:-5

okay great, then its not the master cylinder as others said, whew!



and thanks for the pm........I pumped the brakes 12 times, took the car out and the brakes feel so much tighter!:guitarist:guitarist

I remember bleeding the brakes when the X and I used to change them, but never thought that pumping them would have helped, nor did I think of it.

you made me feel much safer and now my brakes are much much tighter!







thanks babe!
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shelbell
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Question for car mechanics

Post by shelbell »

Odie;1239298 wrote: oh darn that's right, I should have remembered you were a mechanic!:-5:-5

okay great, then its not the master cylinder as others said, whew!



and thanks for the pm........I pumped the brakes 12 times, took the car out and the brakes feel so much tighter!:guitarist:guitarist

I remember bleeding the brakes when the X and I used to change them, but never thought that pumping them would have helped, nor did I think of it.

you made me feel much safer and now my brakes are much much tighter!







thanks babe!


anytime hun...just glad I could help. :):driving:
Richard Bell
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Question for car mechanics

Post by Richard Bell »

Barman;1238310 wrote: Oh dear, you shouldn't have done that. It is very possible that the car will now explode into a zillion bits within the next 50 miles.




Hey, it's a nine year old Chrysler. There's a significant chance that would happen, anyway! :D

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